Have you ever thought of coming to Paris to celebrate New Year’s Eve?
If so, this blog is for you.
After living in LA for more than 10 years, I started to miss big city New Year celebrations — big crowds, neon lights, fireworks, and a city that doesn’t sleep until the wee hours of the morning.
A few big cities came to mind: New York, Berlin, and Paris.
I didn’t pick Singapore because I wanted a cold winter countdown.
So I picked Paris. I understand the language — I’m DELF A2 level. Very basic, but enough to get me around, have simple conversations, and even tell a taxi driver to stop the car because he cheated on the meter.
And come on — it’s Paris. Who doesn’t want to watch fireworks near the Eiffel Tower or on the Champs-Élysées?
But here’s the problem:
There is so much conflicting information floating around the internet about fireworks and the New Year countdown at the Eiffel Tower.
Frustrated, I decided to take my chances and picked Paris anyway, right after my Christmas market tour in Alsace ended.
Here’s what I found.
There are no fireworks at the Eiffel Tower.
The last ones were in the year 2000.
The countdown and fireworks have since shifted to Arc de Triomphe and Champs-Élysées for safety and crowd control.
And honestly, I agree with the move. Going to Trocadéro is a pain — and it’s also a bit farther from places of interest in Paris.
Usually, there are concerts along Avenue des Champs-Élysées. But this year, there weren’t any. The Paris Police Prefecture requested the cancellation for security reasons.
I appreciated the decision — especially because I was traveling with my 10-year-old. I love festivities, but when you have a child on the spectrum, safety always comes before fun.
We left our hotel around 6 pm, had a light bite, and then took the Metro to Ternes, the next station after Charles de Gaulle–Étoile, where Arc de Triomphe is.
Public transportation was free — bus, metro, and tram — from 5 pm on New Year’s Eve until noon the following day. Very cool, especially since I left my Navigo cards at the hotel.
From Ternes, we walked toward Arc de Triomphe and were directed farther down to enter the Champs-Élysées zone. It was quite a walk, so we stopped at a restaurant for a proper dinner — I figured we’d be hungry, and I wasn’t sure what would be available later.
We then walked to the entry point for Avenue des Champs-Élysées. There was security screening — every person entering the avenue was checked.
By then, it was around 8 pm.
It took about an hour, shoulder-to-shoulder, waiting to be screened, then passing through a short alley that led us onto the Champs-Élysées.
Despite my concerns — fireworks or not, crowd size, and a few party-only knuckleheads — I was impressed with how security handled the crowds.
The French officers spoke English, which was a huge relief. It also showed how much Paris has evolved over the years. I noticed the same with others working in tourism — waiters and Navigo ticket officers — which made me feel at ease, even though this country is foreign to me.
I’m not sure how many entry points there were, but we entered through an alley across from Louis Vuitton. There was a separate alley dedicated to people exiting the Champs-Élysées.
Avenue des Champs-Élysées was closed for the fireworks show, so we were able to walk up and down the street to admire the lights, the buildings, and Arc de Triomphe. There was plenty of room to move around — except for the area closest to the Arc. Some people arrived very early and had already camped out to secure a first-class view of the fireworks.
The wait before the countdown was a little dull — but I didn’t mind it.
The light-up display made up for it. The avenue glowed in gold, and every so often it flashed France’s traditional colors — blue, white, and red — mixed with other hues, creating a festive, almost cinematic atmosphere that gently ushered in the new year.
A few boulangeries and restaurants were open. The lines were long, but it was a great way to kill time. We waited almost 30 minutes for donuts and a chausson aux pommes.
By the time we finished eating, the lights started to dim, signaling the crowd to get ready for the countdown.
Best place to be
Definitely right in front of Arc de Triomphe.
You get the best view of the fireworks and the light show.
But it comes with a price — bathrooms, waiting, and leaving afterward. You need to arrive early, come in a group so someone can hold your spot, and be prepared to leave late — or squeeze your way out shoulder-to-shoulder with others.
Second-best option
The center part of this street is your second-best option.
If you miss the first few rows and you’re not tall, anything beyond that may feel disappointing at first. Your view could be blocked by someone taller or by kids (or even adults) sitting on shoulders.
The good news is — you may miss parts of the light show, but you won’t miss the fireworks.
One tip: if you’re already in the middle of Champs-Élysées, don’t leave it. The middle of the street is still a great place to be — like sitting in the center seat in a cinema.
We made the mistake of leaving our spot and scrambling back. It wasn’t easy, as no one wanted to give up their place, and almost everyone was glued to their phone, filming the fireworks.
We left the area as soon as my son felt it was enough. I think he made the right call, because leaving later could have been just as intense as the security screening on the way in.
Of course, we felt FOMO when people started roaring — “wow!” — because it really was spectacular.
I managed to make a quick stop so my son could capture a couple of shots for his YouTube channel before the fireworks ended.
As soon as the last firework popped, we headed for the exit.
Then things got a little crazy!
For the most part, people were mindful — but the festivities got the better of some, and they forgot to pay attention to who was around them.
Taxis were waiting, but I wasn’t tempted to hop into one. The congestion was tight, and it would have taken a long time to clear the area. Unless you’re willing to pay a premium to leave in comfort, walking felt like the better option for us.
We walked all the way back to Ternes station, about 30 minutes. When we arrived, we learned the station was temporarily closed. We waited around 20 minutes, but it remained closed with no clear reopening time.
My son was already tired and not ready to walk another 40 minutes to Blanche.
So I convinced him to keep walking, hoping we’d find another station or catch a night bus along the way.
And behold — Courcelles station was open. It wasn’t crowded, though we didn’t get a seat for the eight stops we rode. Still better than walking for 40 minutes.
When we arrived at Blanche, the street was alive. I suspect the view of fireworks from Sacré-Cœur was equally amazing, even from a distance.
We got back feeling tired. We hung our jackets and crashed.
It was tiring on the feet — but memorable.
Will I come back again next year?
I’m not sure.
The waiting, the walking, the crowds — and traveling with a child with autism — it’s a lot.
But maybe.
Because overall, it was an experience worth remembering.
Coming up next: Where to Watch Fireworks on New Year’s Day in Paris
Need help planning your France itinerary? I can help you plan with confidence.
Helpful read: Train Travel in Paris and Beyond
