Have you heard of Haguenau?
I hadn’t — not until my recent trip to Alsace, where I was on a Christmas market crawl. Normally, I prefer slow, quiet travel, soaking in a place at my own pace. But something about the Christmas spirit in Alsace is irresistible. It pushes you out of your comfort zone, bundles you up against the cold, and sends you wandering through twinkling streets in search of festive cheer.
Haguenau, a charming town in northern Alsace, was a delightful surprise. Small enough to feel cozy, large enough to offer a proper Christmas market experience, it’s the kind of place where you can feel Christmas without being overwhelmed by crowds or commercialization.
Where Is Haguenau?
Haguenau is located in northeastern France, in the Alsace region, about 30 km north of Strasbourg. It’s the second-largest town in the Bas-Rhin department, after Strasbourg.
To the north of the town lies the Forest of Haguenau, the largest undivided forest in France — a beautiful natural backdrop to this charming town.
How to Get to Haguenau
By Train
The easiest and most convenient way to get to Haguenau is by train from Strasbourg. The journey takes about 30 minutes and is both relaxing and scenic.
From Strasbourg-Ville station, take a regional train toward Niederbronn-Les-Bains and get off at Haguenau station. Some trains run almost directly with fewer stops, while others make several stops along the way. We tried both options, and honestly, the difference was hardly noticeable — the ride is pleasant regardless.
By Car
Haguenau is also easily accessible by car, with good road connections from Strasbourg and other parts of Alsace. The town has convenient parking options near the town center, making it a practical choice if you’re traveling with family or planning to explore nearby villages.
The drive is straightforward via the freeway, and well-signposted throughout the region.
By Bus
Regional buses connect Haguenau with nearby towns in Alsace, offering another public transport option. That said, I didn’t take the bus myself, as the train was simply more convenient and time-efficient for our itinerary.
A Bit of History
Haguenau has a fascinating past. Founded by German dukes, the town has changed hands between France and Germany several times over the centuries. After the Franco-Prussian War, it became part of the German Empire from 1871 to 1918, before returning to France after World War I under the Treaty of Versailles.
Today, Haguenau is a growing town with a population of over 34,000, blending French and German influences — something you can still feel in its culture, food, and traditions.
Why Visit the Haguenau Christmas Market?
Honestly — why not?
Haguenau hosts the furthest north and most low-key Christmas market in the Alsace region, and that’s exactly its charm. It’s festive without trying too hard, well-celebrated without feeling staged.
Unlike some Christmas markets that only run for a few days during Advent, the Haguenau Christmas Market opens from the last week of November right through to Christmas Eve. With over 50 chalets, there’s plenty to explore — from comforting food to excellent hot chocolate — without the crowds you’ll find in more famous Alsatian towns.
This is a Christmas market that works for everyone: families, children, couples, and adults traveling without kids. The town leans into a joyful, almost old-fashioned Christmas funfair feeling, especially around the main square.
What really makes Haguenau special, though, is the atmosphere. Even without the iconic timber-framed houses, it truly feels like Christmas. The streets are beautifully decorated with lights, the pace is relaxed, and the market never feels overly commercialized or overwhelming.
People linger. Locals chat. Children laugh. And everyone seems genuinely in the Christmas spirit.
Highlights & What Makes Haguenau Special
A Carousel Straight Out of 1900
One of the biggest highlights — especially for families — is the magnificent 1900 carousel on Place de la République. Children (and adults) can ride beautifully crafted wooden animals, including horses, donkeys, lions, and even a charming stork.
It feels nostalgic, whimsical, and joyful — the kind of carousel that makes the market feel like a true Christmas fair rather than just a row of stalls.
Mulled Wine & Hot Chocolate — Served the Old Way
Haguenau still serves mulled wine and hot chocolate in ceramic mugs, something you won’t easily find at other Christmas markets in Alsace.
You can keep the mug as a souvenir or return it for a refund — a small detail, but one that adds to the authenticity and charm of the experience.
Christmas Food You Should Try
- Galette de pomme de terre (Potato Pancake) – Simple, greasy in the best way, and incredibly satisfying.
- Galette de pomme (Fried Banana Fritter) – Sweet and indulgent, perfect with a cup of tea.
- Candy Stall by the Carousel – A wide selection of nostalgic sweets that bring out the child in anyone.
The one dish I missed: Dampfnudel — a traditional dumpling eaten as a meal or dessert in Southern Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Alsace-Moselle. Often cited as a signature dish of the market, I sadly couldn’t find it, which just gives me a reason to return.
How Much Time Do You Need at the Haguenau Christmas Market?
We arrived around 3:00 PM and left close to 7:30 PM, and it was ample time to experience the market properly — take photos, try different foods, and soak in the atmosphere without feeling rushed.
If you plan to shop for Christmas gifts or explore more of the town beyond the market, I’d recommend spending longer — ideally a full afternoon and evening, or even making it a day trip. Haguenau rewards slow exploration.
What Else to See in Haguenau
If you have extra time, Haguenau offers several interesting stops that pair well with a Christmas market visit:
- Musée du Bagage (Luggage Museum) – Discover legendary trunks in one of Europe’s only luggage museums, housed in the former Banque de France building.
- Le Gros Chêne & Forest of Haguenau – The largest undivided forest in France, perfect for a quiet nature walk.
- Musée Historique de Haguenau – Learn about the town’s layered French-German history.
- Office de Tourisme du Pays de Haguenau / Alsace Museum – For local insights and exhibitions.
- Saint-Georges Church & Église Saint-Nicolas – Atmospheric churches that feel especially festive during the season.
Final Thoughts
Haguenau may not have the fame of Strasbourg or Colmar, but that’s exactly what makes it special. Its low-key atmosphere, friendly locals, and genuine festive charm make it a Christmas market worth discovering.
From sipping hot chocolate in ceramic mugs to riding the magnificent 1900 carousel, wandering through twinkling lights and tasting local treats, Haguenau leaves you with that rare feeling of Christmas as it should be: joyful, cozy, and magical.
If you’re exploring Alsace during the holiday season, give yourself time to wander here. Whether you’re visiting for a few hours or a full afternoon, Haguenau will remind you why Christmas markets are worth the journey — not just for shopping or lights, but for the simple, unforgettable joy of the season.
Want a curated Alsace Christmas experience? I’ll help you discover hidden gems, charming markets, and the best local treats — all stress-free. Contact me here to design your dream holiday itinerary.
